Finally in Texas: Kulmbacher, the original eisbock

Dallas
| Paul

Dallas Craft Beer Examiner

Yes, I have a wish list of beers I want to see available for sale here in Texas. And today, that list is one beer shorter.

We now have Kulmbacher Eisbock stocked in Texas coolers, from the Kulmbacher Brauerei of Kulmbach, Germany. Kulmbacher is a relatively rare style known as an eisbock, or “ice bock,” that takes advantage of a quirk of chemistry that ethanol does not freeze solid until a temperature of –173°F.

According to the story, the eisbock was invented accidentally when a barrel of recently brewed bock beer was left to freeze outside during a cold winter. As the water freezes long before the alcohol, it can be removed as a solid block of ice and leaves behind a much stronger, more concentrated beverage. (If you have at all been following the recent BrewDog alcoholic arms race, this is the method they are using to achieve such high-gravity products.)

Kulmbacher is everything a good doppelbock is, only intensified. It pours a deep brown-black with a sweet and malty aroma, and the taste is heavily caramelized and roasted. Sorghum elements are present, as are deep, rich flavors of prunes, raisins and figs. However, even with a strength of 9.2% ABV, it remains smooth and never harsh or hot with alcohol.

Current Texas law prohibits our local breweries from producing eisbocks, as the method described above is technically distilling. And even with its luxurious flavor and alcoholic strength, Kulmbacher still pairs well with a meal of roasted beef or bird, heavy on the campfire.

(Possibly even more exciting than finally getting Kulmbacher locally is the fact this beer is brought in by the Shelton Brothers distributors of Massachusetts, a major importer of European beers, now available in Texas. Can EKU, Cantillon, Fantome and dozens of others be far behind?)

Availability: Bottles are now found at better liquor stores and pubs; I would assume draft accounts are soon to follow. A bit spendy, as a six-pack usually retails for around $16, but worth every penny.

Cheers!

Originally published February 19, 2010, at Examiner.com

Top 10 beers of 2009

Dallas
| Paul

Dallas Craft Beer Examiner

Of course, everyone puts out a “top ten” list this time of year, so break with tradition?

This list of mine is not necessarily of the best beers available commercially today, nor are they essentially new beers brewed for the first time in ’09. This is a list of what I consider the best beers to make their first appearance on the local North Texas market this year just past—beers worthy of not only a second chance but fine beers you should be purchasing on a regular basis.

10. (512) Pecan Porter. Only just recently trickling into our market, this offering by the Austin-based brewery is hopefully a good omen of more to come.

9. Big Sky Moose Drool. Already a staple and a legend in other states, this is a great, satisfying rich brown ale that I find really easy to drink any time.

8. Abita Andygator. I love bocks, that should be no secret; and this is a fantastic maibock made by an often overlooked brewery nearby in Louisiana.

7. Harpoon Leviathan (Imperial IPA). Harpoon debuted strong in our market this year, and their Leviathan series is a much anticipated addition.

6. Real Ale Shade Grown Coffee Porter. Neither new nor new to our area, this fall seasonal makes the list for being made available in bottles for the first time ever.

5. Belhaven Scottish Stout. What took Belhaven so long to think of brewing a stout? Bye bye, Guinness!

4. Anderson Valley Boont Amber Ale. A surprise addition for a “best of” list, given that most entries are most often high-gravity and super-robust, but this is the amber ale executed just perfectly.

3. Rahr & Sons Bourbon Barrel-Aged Winter Warmer. Also not a new addition (especially as Rahr is a local brewer) but a return to using Maker’s Mark for their aging barrels plus a slight tweak of the recipe this year guarantees the “Whiskey Warmer” a slot in my list.

2. Fuller’s Prize Old Ale. A gorgeous, flavorful, complex beer that can really convince you to become a fan of the old ale style.

1. St-Feuillien Tripel Abbey Ale. I have a small spot on my mantle where I set the bottle of the best beer I’ve had recently, only to be replaced when something better knocks it off. This bottle is still on my mantle.

There’s my list (and it was a close contest between #1 and #2). Let the arguments commence, and have a safe and happy New Year!

Cheers!

Originally published December 30, 2009, at Examiner.com

A new life for Gale’s Prize Old Ale

Dallas
| Paul

Dallas Craft Beer Examiner

Old ales are so named for two reasons. First, they are among the oldest of the British ale styles, brewed for centuries before the pale ales and porters became popular with the public.

The other reason for the name is that they are often well-aged after brewing. Also known as “stock ales,” old ales were generally higher-gravity beers cellared for at least a year, and used by publicans to blend with newer, fresher beer for a more well-rounded flavor (or flavour) that pub patrons enjoyed.

One of the greatest brewers of English beers in general, George Gale & Co. Ltd., was purchased by the Griffin Brewery in 2005. Griffin is best known for the popular Fuller’s line of British ales and associated pubs in the U.K., many of which we already get here in Texas and have for some time.

But this version of Prize Old Ale is new, also in two different ways. This is newly arrived to Texas, which has never seen Gale’s products before, and the 2007 dated edition on shelves now is Fuller’s first attempt to re-create this historic Gale beer. And they’ve done a mighty fine job of it.

Prize Old Ale pours a deep red-brown with an aroma that is malty sweet, vinous and slightly papery. Aged for two years before bottling, the beer is slightly oxidized—which adds to its complexity rather than being a fault. The taste is sweet but not cloying, with almost a port or sherry nature, maybe even fruitcake. Malt is king here, with elements of red grapes, dark cherries, plums, figs and maybe old pipe tobacco.

Like bocks, old ales are a particular passion of mine that we don’t see enough of. This beer might pair well with roast beef, but at a sneaky 9% ABV (none of which is detectable in the taste) it is better left as an after-dinner sipper in place of a brandy.

Availability: Sold in single 500-ml bottles for about $5 to $7 each at better beer bars, British-style pubs and better liquor and grocery stores. As it is now a Fuller’s product, it should enjoy the same wide distribution of their beers.

Cheers!

Originally published August 21, 2009, at Examiner.com

Welcome to the microbrew revolution

Dallas
| Paul

Dallas Craft Beer Examiner

424155_10150617909143983_147484638982_9175819_1939426867_nYou are probably unaware of it, but a revolution has been brewing for years right under your nose. That revolution has become known as the craft beer movement, also called the microbrew revolution. You may ask, “You mean those fancy beers right next to my Bud Light?” That is precisely what I mean, only more so. A commercial boom has created an industry this past decade of small and local breweries across the United States, producing close to 100 different recognized beer styles and a few that defy classification. Some beers are historically Old World (re: Europe) styles, and many are uniquely American.

Elevating microbrewed beer

You may also ask, “Why should I care? Nothing’s better than my Corona Extra!” To this, I must respond: Do you prefer choice prime rib or fatty ground chuck? Parmigiano-reggiano or cheese from an aerosol can? Fresh herb-grilled chicken or something resembling a pre-fabricated nugget? So why should your choice of beer be any different?

Wine took this step years ago. Fine wineries began distinguishing their wines from mass-market products, and began to compete with the finest wines available from Europe. Today, American wines enjoy an elevated status, prized in exceptional restaurants that devote separate menus and a focus just for wines—all the while carrying nothing but generic afterthoughts of bland beer brands. There is no reason why beer should not share the same status as a fine vintage.

Craft beer (as opposed to the national brewers) now claims about 8% of the total U.S. beer market. There are roughly some 1400 brewers of various sizes across the nation, ranging from large regional microbreweries to tiny brewpubs, some packaging in bottles and cans and others available only on tap through a local restaurant. The flavors offered in these products can be worlds away from what we have been conditioned to believe that beer should taste like.

You may already be a fan of microbrewed beer, or you may be loyal to your lifelong favorite brand. All I ask is to keep an open mind and open palate, and don’t be afraid to try one of those “fancy” beers every once in a while.

As always, I am open to comments, suggestions, opinions, questions or news about all beer at paul@scientist.com.

Cheers!

Originally published February 7, 2009, at Examiner.com.